These velvety, vegan beans get a raise from lemon, however additionally they maintain a smoky secret. Aromatics are sometimes sweated in fats to deliver out their sweetness, however crank the warmth and char them as an alternative for, as Tejal Rao wrote, “critical, virtually meatlike depth of taste.” This can be a widespread method in pho, black-eyed peas and different lengthy simmers, nevertheless it additionally develops taste in faster dishes. After searing lemon wedges, their blackened bits scatter all through beans, asparagus and coconut milk, making a creamy bowl that’s subtly smoky and comforting. When asparagus isn’t in season, change it with a darkish, leafy inexperienced like kale or chard. Serve solo, or with rice.
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