
On the Brooklyn restaurant Chez Ma Tante, the brunch pancakes come two to an order, large as dessert plates and nearly burnt. “I knew I wished them to be actually, actually crispy,” mentioned the chef de delicacies Jake Leiber. He was impressed by a reasonably simple pancake recipe made with bacon fats he present in “How America Eats,” the seminal cookbook by Clementine Paddleford, an American meals historian. Mr. Leiber swaps the lard for butter, provides an additional egg yolk to his batter, cranks up the warmth on his classic cast-iron skillet, then pours in an outrageous quantity of melted clarified butter. Fried in shallow swimming pools of sizzling fats, every pancake will get fritter-like crisped edges. Mr. Leiber serves them with extra butter, and glugs of maple syrup. —Daniela Galarza